Bollywood Tourism

One of Mumbai’s best-loved dishes came into being quite by accident. At the end of the day, a few street vendors selling roasted gram and puffed rice by the Juhu beach decided to mix what was left of their wares and make it their supper.

Thus was born bhel puri, a spicy, tangy concoction containing everything from chopped green mango to wisps of fried dough, chilli, tomato and onion, topped off with lime and a slice of deep-fried wheat flour.

Street food takes many forms in Mumbai. In the predominantly Muslim area of Mohammed Ali Road, the streets are lined with stalls selling kebabs, spiced mince, roasted quail and an array of traditional desserts.

At nearly every street corner, you will find the bhel puri stalls – yes, that’s what they’re called. Or a tin cart where potato and batter combine to form what is virtually the city’s official dish – vada pav. This comes with hot garlic chutney and a side of fried chillies, so watch out.

Cuisine from the rest of the country, and indeed the world, is freely available.

On street corners and in five-star restaurants alike, you can sample dosas (South India), biryani rice and spicy barbecued or tandoori meat from the Mughal-influenced north and rosgollas (a dessert from West Bengal).

Seafood, naturally, is everywhere. Fried fish is an integral part of coastal Maharashtrian cuisine and you can get unlimited helpings of fried fish, fish curry, rice, lentils and rotis (unleavened bread) for as little as Rs 60 in the smaller restaurants.

Most traditional Maharashtrian food is spicy, the gravies based in coconut or coconut milk. Poultry and mutton are common too. Beef and pork, out of respect to the Hindu and Muslim faiths, are relatively hard to find.

For about Rs 100, you can opt to be plied with vegetarian fare cooked in the Gujarati style. Ghee (refined oil) is used in every dish, and poured liberally on top of each serving. These meals also include a bowl of curd, salad and unlimited helpings of elaborate, ghee-laden deserts.

Some Gujarati restaurants serve the meal in cutlery and crockery made entirely of silver, just as the royals used to eat.

Parsi food is a hot favourite with Mumbaiites. While the cuisine is a blend of Goan and Gujarati influences, the dishes themselves are unique. Dhansaak, a preparation involving lentils, spices and meat, is by far the best loved, and Fort and Colaba are great places to get some.

Goan food is also a must-try. Watch out for the spicy-sour vindaloo and sorpotel pork concoctions.

If you prefer not to experiment too much, step into any of the plush restaurants offering continental cuisine – everything from pasta to pizza and Chinese food. Colaba and Bandra are your best bets. You can get everything from sumptuous sandwiches to steak in restaurants that cater especially to tourists and expats.

Don’t leave without trying some tea from a roadside stall. Kadak chai or ‘hard tea’, it’s called. And once you’ve tried it in all its syrupy sweetness, the tea leaves re-boiled till they’re all but a stew, you’ll know why.

Bon apetit!